Atera Tasting Menu - The New York Times | Brian Harkin Photography Archive

Brian Harkin Photography Archive | Atera Tasting Menu - The New York Times

Beverage Director Scott Cameron, center, describes Tentaka Kuni "Hawk In The Heavens" sake during a tasting menu service at Atera in New York, NY on Oct. 26, 2013. Also pictured are waiters Matt Abbick, left, and Joe Giardano, right. The sake was paired with razor clam. A matching drink service pairs various alcoholic beverages with each course, and Cameron describes each beverage for the clientele as they are served.

Waiters Matt Abbick, left, and Joe Giardano, right, serve a razor clam course with a pairing of Tentaka Kuni "Hawk In The Heavens" sake by Beverage Director Scott Cameron, center, during a tasting menu service at Atera in New York, NY on Oct. 26, 2013. A matching drink service pairs various alcoholic beverages with each course, and Cameron describes each beverage for the clientele as they are served.

Beverage Director Scott Cameron works a tasting menu service at Atera in New York, NY on Oct. 26, 2013. A matching drink service pairs various alcoholic beverages with each course, and Cameron describes each beverage for the clientele as they are served.

Beverage Director Scott Cameron describes Chateau de Hautville cider during a tasting menu service at Atera in New York, NY on Oct. 26, 2013. The cider was paired with dried beets. A matching drink service pairs various alcoholic beverages with each course, and Cameron describes each beverage for the clientele as they are served.

Jack Jachimowicz, of Middletown, NJ, drinks a glass of Chateau de Hautville cider during a tasting menu service at Atera in New York, NY on Oct. 26, 2013. The cider was paired with dried beets. A matching drink service pairs various alcoholic beverages with each course, and Beverage Director Scott Cameron describes each beverage for the clientele as they are served.